finally took a trip to the village, also known as portmeirion, something we’ve been wanting to do for years. thankfully, it doesn’t disappoint as a thoroughly outstanding and genuinely eccentric place. on our first night there we were driven down into the village in a minibus (sadly not a mini-moke) and just to see it lit up, still painted in garish oranges, pink and blues, the same narrow, winding road, the arches and stairways, the square and statuary, was incredible. the next day, wandering around in daylight, it soon became clear that extraordinarily little has changed since the prisoner was shot there in the late 60s. one of the first things that strikes you is that it’s smaller than it looked on the series, along with the obvious fact that where you thought certain buildings were in relation to others, the general store, number six‘s chalet, number two‘s dome, the balcony where he made his election speech etc. are completely at odds geographically with how they appear on the screen. and yet just being there is ever so slightly alarming, as it should be, as indeed the series still is; this weird little resort of italianesque architecture on the welsh coast, the stretches of flat beach when the estuary tide is out, the (of course utterly fake and adopted) sense that leaving might not be quite as easy as simply taking the a4212 from porthmadog… i have to say the barest residue of the dread evoked by the series remains, at least it was there for me, and contradictory though it might sound, it’s a lovely feeling.
sadly there are less prisoner-centric attractions to be seem about the place these days, none of the sign posts i’d hoped for from the series, but the fact that the place itself is still so similar makes the visual effect more than satisfactory. there is of course the prisoner gift shop, housed in number six‘s abode, and the village’s own tv station which beams a different prisoner episode into your room every night, which was great. and yes, we spent w a y too much money in the prisoner shop but no, we resisted the urge to buy one of their ‘rover‘ giant balloons (yes, they sell them), tie it to my ankle and take pictures of it chasing me across the sands. can’t say we weren’t tempted though. really tempted. maybe we’ll go back.
and yes it was a little chilly. well, it is wales.
as well as the village itself, the surrounding countryside is stunning, the mountains were still covered in snow when we were there and the woodland that all but surrounds the village seemed to be full of the strangest trees: not to mention a number of bizarre tree stumps with coins pushed into them:
and a dog cemetary…
if you are off hiking around the grounds, hostess elisabeth can recommend picking up a big stick which works well for steadying yourself on uneven ground, and for whacking the side of the cast iron lighthouse while i’m standing inside it trying my best not to suffer irreparable hearing loss. the whole place has an otherworldy air and portmeirion’s architect and mastermind clough williams-ellis (a genuine british eccentric) is revealed with every twist and turn as a truly remarkable man.
i can only recommend the experience, particularly if you’ve ever enjoyed the prisoner. portmeirion is a place to wander and to wonder, to take pictures, to soak in the atmosphere, whether of architectural idiosyncrasy or cinematic paranoia and unease… a place to be… unmutual.
i’ll leave you with a compendium of just some of the village’s startlingly odd signage and statuary…